Wasn’t long ago that Austin was known mostly for these guys:
I’ve stood on that bridge at dusk under the million or so bats as they flutter, dive, and swirl about before heading off into the night sky. Sinewy tendrils of winged death. It’s a wonder a few dozen onlookers don’t stroke out at the sight of them every sunset. Fortunately for a few bat fans in the know, there’s a world class craft beer bar just a few blocks from that bridge. An easy walk for even those still jittery from the hellishly Hitchcockian yet spectacular display.
I’m a strong believer in the separation of Church and State. I’m also a strong believer in really illogical segues and that was a particularly fine example. Anyway, I believe that separation should extend beyond religion and politics to include work and play. I practice what I preach by carrying an iPhone and a BlackBerry – one for work, one for play. I’ll leave it to you to figure out which one’s for which. On rare occasions though, work and play intersect. I’m fortunate to speak at an annual national conference in Austin where Higher Education, Health Care, and other industry executives come to hear me discuss topics from the BlackBerry side of the divide. There, I gave it away.
So the first time I visited about the only things I knew about Austin were those bats and the Bell Tower on the campus of the University of Texas. 34 years after the Boomtown Rats song I still don’t like Mondays. Unless its a Monday night in Austin at the Ginger Man.
I’d heard of this bar only in passing and knew there were a few of them in Texas. I’d targeted it for a visit the Saturday I arrived for the conference in 2009. The first session wan’t until the following morning so I had the afternoon for some Texas craft beer research. After a nearly mile long walk in 102 degree heat in search of a Radio Shack for a new laptop charger to replace the one comfortably resting in NJ (being an industry expert doesn’t mean I’m not also a knucklehead – the two aren’t mutually exclusive), I finally hit the Ginger Man. I might have happily accepted a Bud Light Lime after the hike (not really) but once I saw the hammered copper wall with 50-something taps I knew I wouldn’t have to settle for anything. Just about every handle was devoted to craft beer. Quite a few local offerings as well. I settled in with a Live Oak Hefewiezen and my love affair with Texas craft beer began. I’ve been back to the Ginger Man a few times since then and can honestly say it’s one of my top 5 favorite craft beer bars anywhere. My beers are constantly getting hit on there. Seems that almost everyone that walks in is tied to craft beer in some way. It’s a hangout for local brewers and craft beer fans from far and near. The bartenders are all knowledgable, friendly, and attentive.
So I developed a real respect for Texas craft beer during my first visit to the Ginger Man in ’09 but it wasn’t until the next year that I recognized just how vibrant the Austin craft beer culture was. Understandable to a degree because so few Austin breweries distribute outside of the local region (none of them make it out to Jersey – yet another knock). These guys are turning out some legitimate world class brews:
- (512) Brewing – their Pecan Porter is outstanding
- Live Oak – nobody brews a better Hefewiezen (seriously)
- Jester King
- Austin Beerworks
- South Austin Brewing
- Independence Brewing
- Circle Brewing
The Ginger Man was very close to our conference hotel up until 2011 when it moved to the new conference center on the UT campus. Nice place. Just down the street from the Bell Tower but not from my top 5 research spot. Thanks to the play phone and the magic of Google Maps, I located a potential target just 4 or 5 blocks away. Mind you, those 4-5 blocks would be uphill and its still 102 degrees and humid so it better be worth the trip. Duck & Dog Pub. First thought: stupid name. Probably not worth the trip. Nothing else nearby and I don’t have car so I’m pretty much stuck with it. About a block away I spotted the sign and approached what appeared to be a not-too-well maintained large dark shack behind it. Second thought: this place is a dump. Not going in. After all, I’m Jewish and I’m in Texas. Not a good combination to begin with. Then I went in.
Next thought: what is a British pub doing in the middle of Texas and why are there Alaskan Brewing tap handles over there? That last question was pretty easy – they were attached to kegs of Alaskan IPA and Alaskan Summer Ale. The only other place I’d ever seen Alaskan brews on tap was at a bar in SeaTac Airport. That made sense. Alaskans in Austin? Not so much. But the beers were excellent. The atmosphere ridiculously casual and the fried pickles spectacularly addictive (though not nearly as good as the Wicked Pickles at Oak Creek Brewery in Sedona, AZ). You’d never confuse this place with the Ginger Man. Not nearly as many taps but still plenty of good local and not so local offerings. Final thought: I was wrong.
Austin may still be known for its bats, SXSW, Austin City Limits, 6th Street (and that W Daughter’s exploits), but it’s solidly on the craft beer radar and the ping is growing louder and hoppier. Oh, and its still got this:
What did I miss? Who did I offend? Let me know in the comments……